France Practical Guide: Getting Around, Costs & What to Know
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France is the most visited country in the world — and still manages to be genuinely confusing for visitors who arrive without understanding the basic social and logistical infrastructure. The country rewards preparation more than most.
Getting Around
TGV (Train à Grande Vitesse)
France’s high-speed rail network is the most developed in Europe. Key routes:
- Paris–Lyon: 2 hours (normal train journey: 4 hours)
- Paris–Marseille: 3 hours 20 minutes
- Paris–Bordeaux: 2 hours 4 minutes
- Paris–Nantes: 2 hours 10 minutes
- Paris–Strasbourg: 1 hour 47 minutes
Book at sncf-connect.com or via the Raileurope app. Booking 3+ months in advance cuts fares dramatically — the cheapest Ouigo (low-cost SNCF) fares start at €10.
Driving
France has an excellent motorway (autoroute) network, almost entirely tolled. Budget €15–30 for tolls on a Paris–Lyon drive. Vignettes are not required (unlike Switzerland/Austria) — tolls are paid at booths.
Speed limits: 130 km/h on motorways, 80 km/h on two-lane roads (reduced from 90 in 2018), 50 km/h in urban areas.
Fuel: Diesel (gazole) and petrol (sans plomb = unleaded). Supermarkets (Leclerc, Intermarché) have the cheapest fuel.
Regional Trains (TER)
The regional train network connects cities not on the TGV grid. Tickets on Trainline or at station machines. No high-speed equivalent — useful for Provence village-hopping, the Alsace wine route, Brittany coastal towns.
Costs
France is mid-range by Western European standards. Key price points:
- Espresso (café): €2.50–4 (at a bar); €4–6 (at a terrace)
- Boulangerie croissant: €1.50–2.20
- Bistro lunch menu (starter + main or main + dessert): €14–22
- Bistro dinner à la carte: €35–55/person without wine
- Glass of house wine: €5–8
- Metro ticket (Paris): €2.15 single; €16.90 for 10 (carnet)
- Budget hotel: €80–120/night
- Mid-range hotel: €150–250/night
Regional variation: Paris is 30–40% more expensive than provincial France. The Southwest (Dordogne, Lot) is notably cheaper than Provence or the Côte d’Azur.
Social Codes
Bonjour first, always: Entering any shop, café, or office without saying bonjour is considered rude. The greeting opens the interaction. Au revoir closes it. This is not optional social nicety — it’s infrastructure.
Tipping: Not mandatory in France — service is included (service compris) in restaurant bills by law. Leaving coins (€2–5) for good service is appreciated but not expected. Never tip as a percentage as in the US system.
Pharmacy (pharmacie): French pharmacies are the first-line medical consultation system. Pharmacists are highly trained and legally permitted to advise on minor conditions, recommend OTC treatments, and refer to doctors when necessary. The green cross neon sign; one per neighborhood minimum.
The Sunday closure: Many shops, markets, and restaurants are closed on Sunday. The exceptions are boulangeries (open Sunday morning until early afternoon), supermarkets (some), and tourist areas. Plan accordingly.
Queue behavior: The French queue system is looser than northern European equivalents. In markets and food stalls, aggressive counter-claiming is normal. At official counters, the queue is strictly respected.
Language
French is expected in France, particularly outside Paris and major tourist cities. The minimal courtesy phrases that make a significant difference: bonjour (hello), merci (thank you), s’il vous plaît (please), excusez-moi (excuse me), parlez-vous anglais? (do you speak English?). Attempting French, even badly, is received warmly; launching straight into English is not.
Apps: Google Translate’s camera function handles menus and signs. The SNCF app is essential for train booking and ticket display.
When to Go
April–June: Best overall — comfortable temperatures, spring produce, manageable crowds. September–October: Second-best — harvests in Burgundy, Bordeaux, and Alsace; end-of-season prices; fewer tourists. July–August: Peak tourist season and high temperatures. Avoid Paris in August — Parisians leave and the city feels like a museum. Useful for beach destinations (Brittany, Côte d’Azur) and summer festivals. November–March: Off-season prices, cold and grey in Paris. Christmas markets in Alsace (Strasbourg, Colmar) are worth the cold.
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