Taj Mahal & Agra: The Monument of Eternal Love

The Taj Mahal requires no description but benefits from context: Shah Jahan built it between 1631 and 1653 as a mausoleum for his wife Mumtaz Mahal, who died giving birth to their 14th child. 22,000 workers and 1,000 elephants transported white Makrana marble from Rajasthan, semi-precious stones (lapis lazuli, turquoise, jasper, carnelian) from across Asia, and teak from Burma. The result is an object of such precise proportion that it reads as perfect from every angle — the slightly tapering minaret shafts that lean outward so they fall away from the main structure in case of earthquake, the optical illusion that makes the dome appear to change size as you approach.

It is genuinely one of the great buildings in the world, and the tourist infrastructure around it (touts, camel rides, the heat of Agra) doesn’t diminish that.

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The Taj Mahal

Entry: ₹1,300 for foreign visitors. The main gate (Darwaza-i-Rauza) opens at sunrise; the monument closes 30 minutes before sunset. Friday: closed to visitors but open for prayers.

The best time to visit:

• Sunrise: The softest light, the thinnest crowds (still significant by 8 AM). The Taj appears pale pink at dawn, transitioning to white as the sun rises. Book the sunrise entry ticket online (numbers are capped) — available at tajmahal.gov.in
• Full moon nights: The Taj is open on the five nights around the full moon — a separate permit (₹750 additional, extremely limited allocation) allows nighttime viewing. Apply 1 month in advance at the Archaeological Survey of India office in Agra

The Taj from the outside: The view from Mehtab Bagh (Moon Garden, directly across the Yamuna river — entry ₹300) shows the full rear elevation reflected in the river in the evening light. Less crowded than the main complex; different and equally beautiful angle.

Inside the mausoleum: The actual tombs of Mumtaz Mahal and Shah Jahan are in a basement chamber (not accessible to visitors); the cenotaphs visible inside are decorative. The pietra dura inlaid marble work around the cenotaphs — flowers, calligraphy, and geometric patterns in 28 varieties of semi-precious stone — is the finest example of the technique in the world.

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Agra Fort

2 km from the Taj Mahal — the red sandstone fort built by Akbar in 1565, expanded by Jahangir, and completed by Shah Jahan. The fort is the headquarters of the Mughal imperial court and contains within its walls a series of palaces, mosques, and audience halls.

Musamman Burj: The octagonal tower where Shah Jahan was imprisoned by his son Aurangzeb from 1658 until his death in 1666 — the white marble terrace has a view of the Taj Mahal across the Yamuna. Shah Jahan spent his final 8 years looking at the mausoleum he had built for his wife. Entry: ₹650.

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Fatehpur Sikri

40 km west of Agra — the ghost capital built by Emperor Akbar in 1571 and abandoned 15 years later (the water supply was insufficient for the population). The entire city is preserved in red sandstone: the Panch Mahal (a 5-story wind-catching structure), the Diwan-i-Khas (meeting hall with a single central column supporting a platform), and the Buland Darwaza (the Victory Gate, 54 m, the largest gateway in the world).

The site is less visited than the Taj Mahal, more extensive, and gives a more complete picture of Mughal urban planning and court life. Entry: ₹610. Allow 3 hours.

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Getting There

Gatimaan Express (Train): The fastest option — departs New Delhi station at 8:10 AM, arrives Agra Cantonment at 9:50 AM. Return at 5:50 PM. ₹755 (CC class, air-conditioned). Book at irctc.co.in; book well in advance as this train is popular with day-trippers.

Taj Express: Slower alternative (2h15) from Hazrat Nizamuddin station. ₹200–400.

Yamuna Expressway by car: 3 hours from Delhi; toll ₹280. Private car hire with driver: ₹3,000–4,500 for a Delhi–Agra–Fatehpur Sikri–Delhi day.

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Practical Notes

• Heat: Agra averages 40°C in May–June. November–February (18–26°C) is the comfortable visiting window
• Touts: The approach to the Taj Mahal has one of the most aggressive tout environments in India. The official ticket counter is clearly marked; government-approved auto-rickshaws (electric inside the exclusion zone around the Taj) cost ₹50–80
• Combining with Jaipur: The Agra–Jaipur road (NH11) passes Fatehpur Sikri — the Agra–Jaipur move fits into one day with a Fatehpur Sikri stop