Delhi: Old City, Mughal Monuments & the Capital of Contrasts

Delhi is two cities operating simultaneously: Old Delhi (Shahjahanabad, founded 1639 by Emperor Shah Jahan), a medieval tangle of lanes, mosques, and spice markets behind the Red Fort; and New Delhi (designed by Edwin Lutyens and Herbert Baker, inaugurated 1931), the colonial capital of grand boulevards, government buildings, and the diplomatic quarter. Between and around these layers are 3,000 years of additional history — the eight successive capital cities that have occupied the Delhi plain since the Mahabharata.

The result is overwhelming, contradictory, and genuinely unlike anywhere else. Delhi requires more patience than most cities but rewards it proportionally.

---

Old Delhi

Lal Qila (Red Fort): The palace-fortress built by Shah Jahan in 1639–48 — the red sandstone walls enclose a 254-acre compound of audience halls, palaces, and gardens. The Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audiences) is where the Peacock Throne stood before it was carried off to Persia in 1739. The sound and light show in the evenings gives context without the midday heat. Entry ₹600 (foreigners). Open Tuesday–Sunday.

Jama Masjid: The largest mosque in India, built by Shah Jahan in 1650–56 — capacity 25,000 worshippers, the red sandstone and marble courtyard visible from the Red Fort ramparts. Open to non-Muslim visitors between prayer times. The northern minaret can be climbed for views over Old Delhi (₹100).

Chandni Chowk: The main commercial street of Old Delhi — 400 years old, still functioning as a wholesale market, with specialized lanes for spices (Khari Baoli, the largest spice market in Asia), fabrics, electronics, and wedding supplies. Accessible on foot from the Red Fort; the best approach is by cycle rickshaw from the metro station, which positions you at the west entrance of the fort.

Karim’s Restaurant: Behind the Jama Masjid — the 1913 restaurant that has been feeding Delhi since the Mughal kitchen staff who lost their positions after 1857 needed to make a living. Mutton korma, nihari (slow-cooked meat broth), and rotis baked in the tandoor. ₹250–500 per person.

---

Mughal Monuments of New Delhi

Humayun’s Tomb: Built in 1572 for the second Mughal Emperor — a double-domed Persian garden tomb that is the predecessor to the Taj Mahal in architectural style. The 14-hectare Persian garden (charbagh) is the first garden tomb in India; the UNESCO-listed structure was the architectural template for all subsequent Mughal mausolea. Far less crowded than the Taj Mahal; arguably more interesting architecturally. Entry ₹600.

Qutb Minar: The 73-meter minaret built in 1193 to mark the first Islamic conquest of Delhi — the tallest brick minaret in the world, visible from much of south Delhi. The surrounding complex (Qutb Complex, UNESCO) includes the first mosque built in India (1193, using columns from demolished Hindu temples — the columns are visibly repurposed), a 2,000-year-old iron pillar that has never rusted, and later Sultanate-period tombs.

---

The Museums

National Museum of India: Janpath, New Delhi — the largest museum in India, covering archaeological findings from the Indus Valley Civilization (3000–1500 BCE) through the Mughal period. The IVC section has original seals, pottery, and figurines from Harappa and Mohenjo-daro. Open Tuesday–Sunday; entry ₹650.

Crafts Museum (Bhairon Marg): A living museum of Indian craft traditions — potters, weavers, and metalworkers demonstrating their crafts in reconstructed village environments. Free entry; one of the best introductions to Indian craft diversity.

---

The Lodhi Art District

Lodhi Colony, south Delhi — an area of government-housing blocks converted into an open-air public art gallery with murals by Indian and international artists on every wall. The district emerged from the St+art India initiative starting in 2015; it is now the most concentrated public art area in Asia.

---

Practical Notes

• Getting around: The Delhi Metro is the only sane transport for most journeys — clean, fast, and air-conditioned. Auto-rickshaws and Ola/Uber for areas not on the metro
• Air quality: Delhi has serious air quality issues, particularly October–February (post-harvest burning season). An N95 mask is useful; check the AQI (Air Quality Index) at iqair.com before outdoor exertion
• Accommodation: Connaught Place for central access; Hauz Khas for the arts district feel; Mehrauli for proximity to Qutb Minar
• Heat: Delhi summers (April–June) reach 40–47°C. November–February is the comfortable visiting season; March–April is acceptable