Jigokudani: Japan's Snow Monkeys
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Jigokudani (地獄谷 — “Hell Valley”) Monkey Park is located in the Shiga Kogen highlands of Nagano Prefecture, in a valley named for the steam rising from the hot spring vents in the exposed rocky terrain. The Japanese macaques (Macaca fuscata) — known as snow monkeys — who inhabit the surrounding forest discovered the outdoor hot spring pool (originally built for humans) in 1963 and have been using it ever since.
The image of a macaque sitting in a hot spring, steam rising around it, while snow falls on its head and settles on its red-flushed face, is one of the most reproduced wildlife photographs in Japan. The reality is that the behavior genuinely exists, the access is straightforward, and from November through March, the park provides one of the most unusual wildlife encounters available in the country.
The Monkeys
Japanese macaques are the northernmost non-human primates in the world. The Jigokudani troop (approximately 160 individuals) lives wild in the Shiga Kogen forest and comes down to the valley hot spring particularly in winter, when the food availability in the forest decreases and the water temperature (approximately 40°C) provides warmth.
Behavior at the pool: The monkeys use the pool in different ways — some individuals prefer it consistently, others rarely or never enter. Grooming on the pool banks is as common as bathing. Young monkeys learn to use the pool by watching older individuals; the behavior is culturally transmitted rather than instinctive.
The hierarchy: The Jigokudani troop has a clear dominance structure — dominant males and females have priority at the pool. Lower-ranked individuals wait or use less desirable parts of the pool perimeter.
Seasonal pattern: The monkeys are most reliably at the pool from November through March, when snow depth and cold temperatures increase the pool’s relative warmth. In warmer months (April–October), the monkeys are present in the park but may not use the pool.
The Visit
Park area: The park is a short forested valley with the hot spring pool as the centerpiece. A wooden viewing platform surrounds the pool on three sides; visitors stand at the edge and observe the monkeys at close range (3–5 meters).
Proximity: The monkeys habituated to human presence over decades and do not flee when approached. They also do not interact with visitors — eye contact is avoided by both parties. The behavior of crouching to eye level, making eye contact, or reaching toward a monkey is strongly discouraged (it can provoke aggression). Observe, photograph, and leave the animals undisturbed.
Photography: Exceptional. The monkeys at the pool are at face-height for a standing photographer; long lenses are not necessary (a standard zoom captures the expressions). The steam and the red faces against white snow in flat winter light is the standard composition.
Getting There
The park’s access route requires a walk through forest:
From Yudanaka Station (Nagano Dentetsu Line from Nagano City):
- Bus or taxi to Kanbayashi Onsen bus stop (15 minutes)
- Walk on the forest path from the bus stop to the monkey park entrance (2km, 30 minutes)
From Nagano City: Nagano Dentetsu to Yudanaka (45 minutes, ¥1,350), then the above route.
From Tokyo: Shinkansen to Nagano (80 minutes from Tokyo Station), then Nagano Dentetsu and bus. Total from Tokyo: 2.5–3 hours.
From Hakuba or Nozawa Onsen: A 1–1.5 hour drive or bus connection. If you’re already in the Nagano ski area, Jigokudani is a viable half-day trip.
Shuttle buses: During winter peak season, direct buses sometimes run from Nagano City to the park entrance area; check the Yamanouchi Town tourism website for seasonal schedules.
Admission and Hours
Hours: Open daily (the monkeys set their own schedule — the park is always accessible, but macaque presence is not guaranteed at any specific time).
Admission: ¥800/person.
Best time of day: Morning (8–10am) and late afternoon (3–5pm) when the monkeys are most active at the pool. Midday is often quiet.
Peak season: January–February for the most reliable snow conditions and pool usage. November and December are also good; March is transitional.
Shibu Onsen and Yudanaka
The small onsen town of Shibu Onsen (渋温泉) near Yudanaka is worth a stay for its own character: a preserved hot spring street with nine soto-yu (external public baths) accessible to guests of Shibu Onsen hotels. The town is old, small, and typically quiet — the contrast between the ski resort culture of Shiga Kogen above and the traditional onsen street below is significant.
A stay at a Shibu Onsen ryokan, with access to the nine public baths, provides both the snow monkey day trip and a genuine onsen town experience.
Practical Notes
Weather and clothing: Jigokudani in January–February can be −10°C or colder. The 2km walk from the bus stop is through open forest with significant wind chill. Full winter gear (insulated jacket, waterproof pants, warm boots with traction) is necessary — not just comfortable, necessary.
Snow on the path: The approach trail can be icy; traction devices (microspikes or yaktrax) are useful in deep winter.
Crowds: The park is well-known internationally and has significant visitor numbers, particularly on clear winter weekends. The outdoor area at the pool can become crowded; arrive early (park opens at 9am) for better viewing positions and fewer people in your photographs.
The monkeys are wild: No feeding, no touching, no sudden movements. The park staff are present and enforce these rules.
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