Réunion Beaches Guide: Where to Swim, Snorkel & Surf
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Réunion’s beaches require more context than most Indian Ocean destinations. The island’s volcanic origin means black sand on many coasts; the lack of a complete barrier reef means shark presence in offshore waters that has led to a significant reduction in ocean swimming since 2011. The west coast — protected by a partial reef and with the island’s only calm-water lagoon swimming — is where most beach activity concentrates.
Understanding where and when it’s safe to swim is the first practical priority. What follows is excellent: the west coast lagoon is genuinely beautiful, the surf at Saint-Leu is among the best in the Indian Ocean, and the black sand beaches of the south have a dramatic quality that white-sand beaches can’t match.
The West Coast: The Swimming Zone
The western coast from Boucan Canot north to Saint-Paul has the island’s only consistent calm-water beach swimming. A fringing reef (not a barrier reef — it doesn’t extend the full length of the coast) provides partial wave protection along certain beaches.
Saint-Gilles-les-Bains
The main beach resort of Réunion — a developed waterfront with hotels, restaurants, a dive shop zone, and the L’Hermitage Lagoon:
L’Hermitage Lagoon: The most protected swimming area on the island — a shallow (1–2m) lagoon inside the reef, with calm, clear water. The reef is visible from the beach; wave energy is absorbed before reaching the lagoon. Good for families and non-swimmers. The coral reef at the lagoon edge is accessible for snorkeling (mask and fins rentable from beach operators).
La Plage des Brisants (Boucan Canot): The main surf beach south of Saint-Gilles — longboard and shortboard surfing conditions, regular competition venue. Swimming outside the surf zone is subject to shark risk management protocols (see below). The beach has lifeguards and a VIGIES REQUINS (shark watch) program.
Saint-Paul Beach
A long black sand beach backed by the town of Saint-Paul — the most accessible swimming beach near the north coast, with some reef protection at the northern end. The black volcanic sand is distinctive (and significantly hotter underfoot in direct sun than white sand).
Shark Risk: The Practical Reality
Since 2011, Réunion has experienced an unusually high number of shark incidents — predominantly bull sharks (Carcharhinus leucas), which are resident in the warm, turbid water along the west coast. Several fatal attacks reduced ocean swimming and surfing significantly.
Current status: The Prefecture de La Réunion maintains the REQUIN 974 system — a network of acoustic barriers, shark nets (at specific beaches), and a VIGIES REQUINS watch program. Designated swimming zones at Saint-Gilles, Boucan Canot, and Saint-Leu are considered significantly safer than unprotected beaches.
What to follow:
- Swim only at beaches with lifeguards (drapeau) and shark barriers
- Obey beach closure flags (red = closed, orange = caution)
- Do not swim at dawn, dusk, or after rainfall (when river water enters the sea, reducing visibility and attracting bull sharks)
- The lagoon inside the reef at L’Hermitage is safe; open-water swimming outside designated zones is not recommended
Surfing: Professional surfers continue to use the Saint-Leu and Boucan Canot breaks with protective gear (shark deterrent devices) and organized sessions. The risk is real but managed by local surfers who understand the conditions.
Saint-Leu: Surf Capital
25 km south of Saint-Gilles
Saint-Leu has one of the best left-hand reef breaks in the Indian Ocean — a consistent wave breaking over a shallow reef point, suitable for experienced shortboarders. The town has developed a surf culture around the break; surf schools, board rental, and the annual Pro Réunion surf competition (WSL qualifying series) are centered here.
For beginners and intermediates: The beach break south of the main reef point is gentler; surf schools use this zone for lessons. The main left-hand break is expert-only.
Turtle Reserve: A sea turtle rehabilitation center (Kelonia) is adjacent to Saint-Leu — a marine turtle conservation project with educational visits and, occasionally, turtle release events. Worth a half-day visit.
South Coast: Dramatic Black Sand
The southern coast below Saint-Pierre is exposed to the full Indian Ocean swell — no reef protection, significant wave energy, not for swimming. But the black sand beaches have a dramatic quality:
Plage de Grand-Anse: A wide black sand beach below the fishing village of Petite-Île — one of the most scenic beaches on the island, with the ocean horizon unobstructed to the south and the vegetation of the south coast as backdrop. No swimming (wave energy and offshore hazards). Excellent for picnics and photography.
Saint-Pierre Beach: The town beach of Réunion’s second city — a narrow strip of black sand fronting the Saint-Pierre waterfront, with the town’s outdoor restaurant and bar culture directly behind it. More social than recreational.
East Coast
The east coast faces the wet, windward side of the island — heavy rainfall, powerful seas, no reef protection, and the lagon of the west does not exist here. Not a swimming coast. The black sand beaches are present (Sainte-Rose, Saint-Benoît areas) but for landscape appreciation rather than water activity.
Snorkeling and Diving
L’Hermitage reef: The best accessible snorkeling — the reef edge visible from the beach, accessible on foot from the lagoon. Fish life is good (parrotfish, surgeonfish, wrasse, butterfly fish). Coral health has improved with protection measures.
Diving operators: Saint-Gilles and Boucan Canot have certified dive schools — Corail Plongée, Saint-Gilles Plongée, and others. Dive sites include the west coast reef, wrecks, and the canyon formations offshore. The diving here is less spectacular than the Maldives or Seychelles reef, but the volcanic underwater topography is distinctive.
Cap La Houssaye: A dive and snorkeling site north of Saint-Gilles — an underwater cliff with good visibility and diverse marine life. Accessible by boat from Saint-Gilles.
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