Makgeolli and Soju: Korea's Drinking Culture Explained
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South Korea consistently ranks among the top countries in the world for per-capita alcohol consumption. The social infrastructure around drinking — hof (bar) culture, pojangmacha (tent restaurants), anju (food served with drinks), the ordering of chimaek (chicken and beer) on the Han River, the obligatory company dinner with soju rounds — is deeply embedded in Korean social life in a way that isn’t replicated in most Western countries.
Understanding what Korea drinks, why it drinks it, and how is part of understanding the culture.
Soju (소주)
Soju is distilled from fermented grain (traditionally rice, now primarily sweet potato or tapioca) and typically bottled at 16-25% ABV. The most widely sold spirit in the world by volume — Jinro soju outsells the next largest spirits brands globally by a significant margin.
What It Tastes Like
Clean, slightly sweet, mildly harsh at the higher alcohol versions. Traditional higher-ABV soju (25%) has more character; the modern low-ABV versions (16%) are deliberately mild to maximize accessibility. The taste is neutral enough to function as a social lubricant rather than a flavor experience.
The flavored versions (Jinro Grapefruit, Peach Soju, Lemon) are targeted at younger drinkers and have their own culture. They’re sweeter, lower ABV, and enormously popular at convenience stores.
How It’s Drunk
Soju is drunk in shots, usually poured by others rather than for yourself. The Korean drinking etiquette around soju:
- Do not pour your own glass: Pour for others; wait to be poured for. Letting someone’s glass stay empty is a social failure.
- Turn to the side when drinking with elders: A sign of respect in formal or mixed-age settings.
- Receive with two hands or with your right hand supported by your left when someone is pouring for you.
- Geonbae (건배): The Korean cheers — glasses together, “geonbae!” Variations: mah-sseo-yo (delicious) as an informal toast after the first sip.
The Bomb Shot: Somaek
The somaek (소맥) is soju dropped into beer — Korea’s version of a depth charge shot. The ratio is debated by everyone: approximately 3:7 soju-to-beer is the standard, though preferences vary. Mix by spinning the glass with a chopstick until the liquid creates a vortex, then drink quickly. This is how Korean drinking pace accelerates after the initial formalities.
Where to Buy
Soju is ₩1,200-1,800 at convenience stores — the cheapest spirits price for any category in developed countries. Restaurant markup takes a 360ml bottle to ₩4,000-6,000. The economics make soju the default choice across income levels.
Makgeolli (막걸리)
Makgeolli is fermented rice wine — unfiltered, milky white, slightly fizzy from active fermentation, between 5-8% ABV. It’s one of the oldest Korean drinks, with records going back to the 10th century Goryeo period.
What It Tastes Like
Sweet, slightly tart, slightly earthy from the fermentation, and mildly bitter at the finish. The commercial versions (Woori Ssal Makgeolli, Seoul Makgeolli) are sweeter and more uniform. Traditional jipyangju or craft brewery versions have more complexity — some are almost sake-like in their depth, others are aggressively sour.
The sediment settles at the bottom of the container; shake or swirl the bottle before pouring to incorporate it. The cloudy milky liquid is the finished drink.
The Pajeon Pairing
The canonical makgeolli pairing is pajeon — green onion pancakes, often with seafood (haemul pajeon). The logic is sound: the crispy, savory, slightly oily pancake offsets the sweet acidity of the makgeolli. This pairing is supposedly more enjoyable on rainy days — there’s a Korean saying that rain sounds like pajeon being fried, creating an associative craving.
Whether the weather claim is real or invented, the combination is genuinely complementary and available at most traditional markets, pojangmacha, and Korean restaurants.
Where to Find Good Makgeolli
Craft makgeolli: Seoul has developed a craft makgeolli movement comparable to craft beer in Western cities. The Booth (Itaewon and multiple locations) and Maru180 (Hapjeong) are the most prominent bars specializing in artisan rice wine.
Traditional market versions: Gwangjang Market in Seoul, Jeonju Nambu Market, and Andong’s local production all represent the regional makgeolli culture at its most authentic.
Jeonju: The Jeolla region is the spiritual home of makgeolli culture — the rice grown there and the traditional fermentation methods produce some of the best makgeolli in Korea. The locally produced baek-il makgeolli (100-day makgeolli, aged longer than standard) has depth that commercial versions can’t match.
Chimaek: Chicken and Beer
The chimaek (치맥) combination — fried chicken and beer — is Korea’s defining casual drinking occasion. The fried chicken (Korean-style, double-fried for maximum crispiness, often glazed with sweet-and-spicy sauce) pairs with light lager in a combination that has generated an entire culture around delivery apps, Han River picnics, and late-night restaurants.
The rise of Korean fried chicken globally tracks from this specific cultural practice. The Korean style differs from American fried chicken in the batter (thinner, crispier), the cooking method (twice-fried removes more moisture, creating a glass-like crust), and the sauces (ganjang-based sweet garlic, or buldak-level spicy gochujang).
Where: Every Korean neighborhood has a chimaek delivery culture; for sit-down, Kyochon and BBQ Chicken are the reliable chains. For the Han River version, order via app (the major chains all deliver to the riverside parks) and find a spot on the grass.
Beer (맥주)
Korean beer has historically been dominated by Hite and OB — light lagers that function as accompaniment rather than destination. The craft beer scene has grown substantially since 2014, when regulations changed to allow small-scale brewing and distribution.
Interesting craft breweries:
- Hand and Malt (Seoul/nationwide): Japan-influenced brewing with Korean ingredients
- Magpie Brewing (Seoul): One of the first craft operations in Korea
- Jeju Beer: Island-focused brand using Jeju water and locally-inflected styles
The convenience store beer selection has improved significantly. Kloud and Terra from the major breweries are better than the previous generation; imported cans from Germany, Belgium, and the US are widely available.
Drinking Etiquette Summary
| Situation | What To Do |
|---|---|
| Someone older pours for you | Receive with two hands or right hand supported by left |
| Your glass is empty | Wait to be poured for; pour for others first |
| First drink of the evening | Toast “geonbae!” and drink together |
| You don’t want more | Leave your glass slightly full; it signals you’re done |
| Refusing a pour | Cover your glass with your hand or excuse yourself clearly |
| Paying | Whoever initiated the gathering typically pays for the first round; the next oldest takes the second |
The reciprocal pouring culture means that group drinking moves at a collectively negotiated pace. Watching the glasses around you and refilling them is social participation; focusing only on your own glass is antisocial.
Anju: Food With Drinks
Anju (안주) is the food category specifically designed to accompany alcohol. The concept that you eat while drinking — not just before or after — is foundational to Korean drinking culture.
Key anju:
- Pajeon: Savory pancakes with green onions and seafood
- Dubu kimchi: Warm tofu with stir-fried kimchi
- Eomuk bokkeum: Stir-fried fish cakes in sweet soy sauce
- Haemul pajeon: Seafood pancake
- Chimaek: Fried chicken
The drinking occasion without anju is unusual in Korea. Ordering one anju dish per table is the minimum social contract; ordering three or four dishes for a larger group table is normal.
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