Matsuyama and Dogo Onsen: Shikoku's Best City

Matsuyama is the largest city on Shikoku — Japan’s smallest main island, crossed by 88 Buddhist temples along the ancient pilgrim circuit, and consistently undervisited by foreign travelers who prioritize the Honshu cities. Shikoku’s relatively thin domestic tourism infrastructure is part of what makes it worthwhile: the crowds are elsewhere.

Matsuyama specifically has two things that make it a significant stop: Matsuyama Castle, with an original 17th-century keep accessible by ropeway and on foot, and Dogo Onsen — a hot spring complex that has been operating continuously for over 1,300 years, making it the oldest functional onsen in Japan.

Getting There

From Osaka: 2.5 hours by Shinkansen to Okayama + 1.5 hours by JR Limited Express Shiokaze to Matsuyama (total ¥12,000). JR Pass valid for both.

From Hiroshima: 1 hour by high-speed ferry across the Seto Inland Sea (¥6,700) — one of the more scenic ferry routes in Japan, passing between the islands of the Onomichi-Imabari Shimanami Kaido route.

From Fukuoka: 2 hours by bus to Matsuyama (highway bus, ¥4,200 one-way).

Within Matsuyama: A tram (streetcar) system operates on two lines through the city. The main line connects Matsuyama Station to Dogo Onsen. Fare: ¥180 per ride; 1-day pass ¥700.

Matsuyama Castle

The castle occupies the summit of Katsuyama hill (132m) in the center of the city. It is one of Japan’s 12 original castle keeps — the main tower dates to 1820 (the third rebuild after fires destroyed two predecessors, 1602 and 1784). The castle complex has 21 structures including multiple towers and gates, all original.

Access: By ropeway (¥510 round trip, 3-minute ride) or by hiking path (20 minutes each way). The ropeway terminus and the start of the hiking paths are both at the base of the hill, 15 minutes walk from central Matsuyama.

The hilltop view takes in the city below, the Seto Inland Sea, and the surrounding mountains. In cherry blossom season (early April), the 200 trees on the castle hill make this one of the premier cherry blossom viewing spots in western Japan.

Interior: The castle interior shows the progressive design evolution through the three builds — the current three-story main tower is smaller than the original (destroyed in a lightning strike) and reflects the simplified, practical aesthetic of later Edo-period castle design. The wooden interior staircases are steep originals. Admission ¥520 (castle) + ¥510 (ropeway).

Dogo Onsen

The most historically significant hot spring in Japan, operating on its current site since at least 704 AD (the Nihon Shoki, Japan’s second-oldest chronicle, records Emperor Jomei bathing here in 631). The main bath building — the Dogo Onsen Honkan — dates to 1894 and is a three-story wooden complex in Meiji-era architectural style.

The Honkan and its legend: Dogo Onsen is strongly associated with Natsume Soseki’s novel Botchan (1906) — the protagonist’s regular visits to the bath here make it a literary landmark. It is also widely believed to have inspired the bathhouse in Hayao Miyazaki’s Spirited Away (2001). Miyazaki has been coy about direct attribution, but the architectural and atmospheric similarities are noted; the bath’s status as a model for the film’s central setting is part of its contemporary identity.

The renovation situation: The main Honkan building entered a major renovation in 2019 (originally scheduled for 2023 completion, extended). During renovation, partial sections are open; the full building is expected to reopen around 2024–2025. Check current status before visiting — some bath sections are operational while others remain under scaffolding.

What’s available during renovation:

Asuka-no-yu (2021): A new annex opened specifically to provide full bath access during the Honkan renovation. Modern facility, same spring water. Admission ¥600.
Tsubaki-no-yu: A second bath building near the Honkan, older and simpler, ¥400 admission.

Dogo Onsen water: The water temperature is 42–44°C, sodium bicarbonate type (alkaline). The mineral composition produces a silky texture associated with “beautiful skin water” (bihada no yu) in Japanese classification.

The Dogo Onsen neighborhood: The shopping arcade leading from the tram stop to the Honkan is lined with traditional sweet shops (mikan (mandarin orange) based confectionery is the local specialty), botchan dango (red bean dumplings named for the novel character), and onsen-goods vendors. The arcade is pedestrian, covered, and has operated in roughly the same commercial form since the Meiji period.

Tarte — the tarte confectionery of Ehime (a thin sponge roll with red bean paste, based on a Portuguese influence from the 16th century) is sold throughout the arcade. Different from French tarte; a specifically Ehime product with 400 years of history.

Ishite-ji Temple (Temple 51)

The 51st temple on the Shikoku 88-temple pilgrimage circuit, located at the end of the Dogo Onsen walking route (15 minutes east of the Honkan). The temple complex is one of the more architecturally interesting on the pilgrimage: the main gate (Niomon) dates to 1318, and the adjacent treasure hall contains significant Buddhist sculpture.

The cave complex behind the main temple buildings — a long winding passage cut into the hillside with stone Buddhas in niches throughout — is unusual even by Shikoku pilgrimage standards.

Ohenro-san (Shikoku pilgrims) wearing white with wooden walking staves are visible in Matsuyama year-round, completing or beginning this section of the 1,200 km circuit.

Uchiko — Day Trip

35 minutes west of Matsuyama by JR local train: the small town of Uchiko, whose preserved merchant district (Yokaichi Gokoku street) shows the wealth generated by Japan’s 19th-century wax trade. The merchant houses with their namako (sea cucumber) plaster walls and wooden lattice facades are among the best-preserved Edo-period streetscapes in Shikoku. Uchiko-za — a completely original Meiji-period kabuki theater (1916), still used for performances — is the highlight. Admission ¥500.

Practical Notes

Matsuyama is walkable and tram-accessible: The castle, central shopping, and Dogo Onsen are all connected by the tram network. The 1-day tram pass covers all necessary routes.

Accommodation: Staying in the Dogo Onsen area puts you within walking distance of the bath and the shrine complex; staying near Matsuyama Station is more convenient for transport connections. Several ryokan in the Dogo area have private onsen fed by the same spring.

Mandarin oranges: Ehime Prefecture produces more mikan (mandarin oranges) than any other prefecture in Japan. The juice at the Matsuyama airport and station is genuinely excellent; the fresh mikan from roadside stands in season (October–February) are worth buying.

Matsuyama is the correct introduction to Shikoku because it has enough — a significant castle, Japan’s oldest onsen, a literary association, good food — to make it worthwhile on its own terms, while being genuinely different from the Honshu cities in character and pace. The tram running through the city to an 1894 bathhouse, with pilgrims on the street and the castle visible from the hilltop — it is a combination that doesn’t exist anywhere else.