Miyajima: The Floating Torii Gate and What Surrounds It

Itsukushima Shrine’s torii gate rises from the sea and appears to float at high tide. The structure has stood here in some form since the 12th century; the current gate dates to 1875. At full tide, the water reaches the base of the shrine’s boardwalk and the vermilion gate stands in open water. At low tide, visitors wade out and stand beneath it. Both experiences are worth having if you stay long enough.

Miyajima (officially Itsukushima) is a small island accessible by a 10-minute ferry from Miyajima-guchi in Hiroshima prefecture. It is one of the Nihon Sankei — Japan’s three famous views, a designation from the Edo period that includes Matsushima in Miyagi and Amanohashidate in Kyoto. The three were chosen for their combination of water, land, and structure. Miyajima remains the most visited of the three.

Getting There

From Hiroshima, take the JR Sanyo line to Miyajima-guchi station (27 minutes from Hiroshima station). From there, two ferry companies cross to the island: the JR ferry (covered by JR Pass, ¥200 without) and the Matsudai Kisen ferry (¥200, slightly nicer boats). Both take 10 minutes; both go to the same pier.

Day-trippers from Kyoto or Osaka can reach Hiroshima on the Shinkansen and add Miyajima the same day, though the combined journey works better as a two-day Hiroshima itinerary rather than a rushed single day.

Tide Timing

The torii looks different at every tide. Check the tide schedule for your visit date at the Hiroshima port authority or any visitor center — they publish it prominently because it determines most visitors’ experience.

High tide: The gate floats in water, the shrine’s boardwalk is level with the sea surface, and the reflection of the structure in calm water is the postcard image. Go at high tide for photography.

Low tide: The gate sits on exposed sand. You can walk to it, touch the wood, stand beneath it, and see the barnacles on the posts. Many visitors find this more meaningful than the floating version — the scale of the structure becomes apparent only at ground level.

Sunset and golden hour: If tide cooperates with late afternoon timing, the gate at sunset is exceptional. Check the calendar; this alignment happens several times a month.

Itsukushima Shrine

The shrine complex extends from the main hall along the waterfront on a series of elevated boardwalks and connected buildings. Most visitors see only the torii and the main gate hall; the full complex rewards more time.

The Marodo-jinja (a sub-shrine) and the Noh theater stage over the water are particularly worth finding. The Noh theater still hosts performances during the island’s main festivals. The Takabutai (high platform) gives the best elevated view of the gate.

The inner hall requires the ¥300 admission; the surrounding walkways are free. The admission is worth it.

Mount Misen

The island’s interior is a primeval forest covering a 535-meter peak. Mount Misen is reached by ropeway (two stages, ¥2,000 return) or by hiking trail (roughly 90 minutes up). The summit view encompasses Hiroshima Bay, the islands of the Seto Inland Sea, and on clear days, the bridge systems connecting to Shikoku.

The trail through Momijidani Park (Maple Valley) is the standard hiking route. The name comes from the autumn maple display, but the forest is worth walking through regardless of season.

At the summit, a small building houses the Garan — a sacred fire that has supposedly burned continuously for 1,200 years since Kobo Daishi’s meditation retreat on the mountain. The Eternal Flame is used to light the atomic bomb memorial’s eternal flame in Hiroshima — the two fires connected across the bay.

The Deer

Like Nara, Miyajima has free-roaming deer. Unlike Nara’s deer, who have been fed by tourists for centuries and actively solicit attention, Miyajima’s deer are slightly more feral and less interested in performing. They wander through the shrine precincts, sleep on the ferry pier, and occasionally try to eat paper bags.

Feeding them is discouraged; the island authorities are more serious about this than Nara. The deer are charming at distance and occasionally a nuisance at close range if you’re carrying anything edible.

Momiji Manju

The island’s most famous food product: momiji manju (maple leaf manju cakes), sweet confections shaped like maple leaves and filled with bean paste, cream cheese, or chocolate. Every shop on the main street sells them; the traditional version with red bean paste from Yamaguchiya or Fujitaya is the correct one.

Deep-fried momiji manju is a more recent development and a reasonable way to eat three of them — the batter makes them lighter.

Oysters: Hiroshima prefecture produces 60% of Japan’s oysters and Miyajima is the traditional center. Grilled oysters, oyster rice, oyster tempura, and raw oysters on ice are available at every restaurant and several street stalls. They are large, briny, and best around November through March when water temperatures are lowest.

Staying Overnight

Most visitors come as a day trip and miss what makes Miyajima best: the island after the last ferry of day-trippers has departed. By 5pm the crowd thins dramatically. By 6pm the streets are quiet and the deer have the shrine precinct to themselves.

Staying overnight is one of the better decisions you can make in western Japan. The island has several ryokan (traditional inn) options ranging from mid-range to luxury. Iwaso Ryokan is the most established, in business since 1854, with rooms overlooking Momijidani. Prices start around ¥30,000 per person with dinner and breakfast included.

The morning before the day-trippers arrive is different from any other moment on the island: the shrine boardwalk empty, mist over the bay, deer moving through the gate.

Combined Hiroshima Day

Miyajima works best as part of a two-day Hiroshima itinerary:

Day 1 — Hiroshima: Peace Memorial Park and Museum in the morning (allow 2–3 hours for the museum; it is serious and important). Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki for lunch at any of the restaurants around the Hondori arcade. Afternoon at the Hiroshima Castle or Shukkeien Garden.

Day 2 — Miyajima: Ferry across in the morning, tide check beforehand. Itsukushima Shrine, Mount Misen by ropeway or trail, oysters for lunch, afternoon walk of the less-visited western shore, return to Hiroshima by evening.

This sequence gives you both the historical weight of Hiroshima and the natural beauty of Miyajima without either feeling rushed.

Practical notes

The island has no cars — all transport is foot, deer, or the ropeway. This is unusual in Japan and contributes to the atmosphere.

Peak cherry blossom (late March to early April) and autumn foliage (November) bring the largest crowds. In both seasons, the landscape is legitimately spectacular; the crowds are also legitimate.

Last ferry is around 10pm in summer, earlier in winter. Check the current schedule.

Admission to Itsukushima Shrine inner buildings: ¥300. Ropeway to Mount Misen: ¥2,000 return. Ferry from Miyajima-guchi: ¥200 (or free with JR Pass for JR ferry).